rainLeakfast tacos should not be confused with breakfast tacos. Of course they often is But the stuffed flour tortillas eaten on both sides of the southern border are quite different from American tortillas. Tacos Magnaneros the wealthy corn-based population of central and southern Mexico. Taco de canasta (“Tacos in a Basket”) or smoked beef barbacoa, which Monterey native Lily Ramirez-Foran recalls was her father’s favorite Sunday breakfast. Instead, Texas Monthly explains that breakfast tacos “combine the core elements of the American breakfast—scrambled eggs, bacon, and potatoes—with the genius flavor of Mexican staples: salsa, cheese, and fried beans.”
Although originally created in Mexico (what a title!), this $3 snack is now so popular north of the border that it’s the subject of regular taco wars, according to the magazine’s taco editor José R Ralat. It mostly happens between those who claim Austin as their spiritual home (often exploding, according to its fiercest critics) and those who know that no single city can claim that credit. Fillings range from pork to chilaquiles, beans and cheese, but Ralat insists that they all be salty, tender and, above all, comforting, telling the Washington Post a few years ago that “the best breakfast taco is a homemade taco.” This is great news if you live 5,000 miles from the Mexican border.
tortilla
Breakfast tacos are almost always served on flour tortillas rather than corn, which is appropriate for a product from Mexico’s northern wheat-growing regions. Corn tortillas are much older, but dismissing the flour variety as fake is a product of the collective historical amnesia that occurred when Texas separated from Mexico, as Ralat explains in his book American Tacos. Flour tortillas got there long before Washington did. Yes, you can use corn if you want (J Kenji López-Alt’s Serious Eats recipe offers that option). But for me, the fluffy flexibility of flour tortillas makes them the better choice here.
However, we cannot recommend the highly processed, palm oil-laden, long-lasting “wraps” that have become widespread in UK supermarkets in recent years. The wraps are so big and tough and taste strangely sweet. There are some good tortillas sold online, but considering how important they are to this dish, you may want to try making them yourself. Fortunately, it’s much easier than the corn version, thanks to a little substance called gluten. Lisa Fain, better known online as Homesick Texan, has some great recipes.
egg
Breakfast tacos don’t need eggs – just potatoes and chorizo. carne guisada (beef stew), beans, and cheese are all popular choices as well. But protein-rich eggs’ reward rate ratio couldn’t be better (although plant-based alternatives like tofu can give them a run for their money). Fain adds milk to the tacos to fill them with fluffy scrambled eggs, while Hope Rodriguez, who has been Texas Monthly’s art coordinator for 34 years, and Reyna and Maritza Vazquez of Austin’s much-loved Veracruz All Natural chain add tomatoes and onions. Add jalapeno (Rodriguez) or cilantro (Vazquez) to taste the eggs. Huevos a la MexicanaNamed after the patriotic color. I prefer to keep the eggs simple and add the vegetables separately, but feel free to season them however you like.
In my experience, American scrambled eggs tend to be cooked hard and quickly for a dry, fluffy result rather than loose and creamy. In fact, López-Alt blames the eggs, confessing that he hasn’t historically been a fan of breakfast tacos. He writes in Serious Eats, “With their gummy and sulfur content, they’re too dense to absorb salsa and too dry to add moisture, so you’ll need a lot of fresh flour or corn tortillas, no matter how good they are.”
His solution was to swap traditional scrambled eggs for fried eggs, “thinking that the liquid yolks would make the perfect sauce.” I can’t claim that runny eggs are always delicious, but just as it’s much more enjoyable to lick ice cream with a cornet than to eat it with a small plastic spoon, I feel strongly that tacos, like slices of pizza, are best consumed without using a knife or fork. This makes López-Alt’s creations very messy. But it looks great. So if that’s your main focus, definitely fry it instead. At the same time, you may want to take a hard look at your priorities.
remain
I love beans for breakfast, and the refried beans that Fain distributes are delicious and easy to spread on tortillas. You can also use cooked black or pinto beans, but I recommend mashing the beans with a fork first. Otherwise, all the beans will inevitably fall out when you pick up the taco. (Alternatively, you can mash a ripe avocado and use it the same way.)
Potatoes are another popular choice for those who like to eat carbohydrates. López-Alt, for example, is diced, lightly boiled, and then fried in chorizo oil until deliciously crispy. Carol Barclay of Portland, Texas, on the other hand, asks for frozen hash browns because the recipe is in a Texas cookbook that I bought at the gift shop at Mission San José in San Antonio. Unfortunately, I didn’t realize until it was too late that Carol probably didn’t mean the aggressively crunchy triangles beloved of certain fast food chains, but rather French fries, very similar to López-Alt. Of course, both work, but the fried potato chunks make the dish heavier than Carol intended.
Or maybe you prefer Austin’s signature migas tacos, which turn old tortillas into gold. But luckily, the Vazquezes’ recipe, included in the book The Tacos of Texas, calls for ready-made fried tortilla chips, which provide a very satisfying crunch to the proceedings. Assuming you don’t have enough left over to make nachos, your best bet is to use an open bag from New Year’s Eve.
Since I ate beans, I skipped any chips or potatoes. Especially because, as Fain wisely observes, the genius of breakfast tacos is how easy they are to eat. Unlike a breakfast burrito, for example, “it’s nimble and efficient. It fits easily in the hand and mouth, and has all your breakfast needs rolled into one neat little package. I’m not an advocate of eating and driving (or eating and walking), but this one is up to the task. It’s just as delicious in a more appropriate, sit-down forum.” For this reason, breakfast tacos tend to have only a few fillings. Because it’s small, you can always order two or three different dishes to cover all your bases.
Fain likes bacon or sausage patties, López-Alt likes chorizo, and Barclay likes “hot sausage” that can be easily recreated with sausage meat and spices (I use a “Copycat Jimmy Dean Breakfast Sausage” recipe that includes cayenne pepper, chili powder, sage, black pepper, and coriander). Rodriguez, on the other hand, opts for “refried beans, bacon, and chunky hash browns.” Potatoes, and fried chorizo”. I love the salty, flavorful chorizo (the soft Spanish chorizo you eat here is completely different from the looser raw Mexican chorizo, but it makes a great substitute) and the way the fat from the chorizo aromatizes the rest of the dish. But you might prefer to use other types of sausages, cured meats, vegetarian alternatives, or actually just keep them together. “Choosing whether to add meat or vegetables to your breakfast is a big deal,” says Fain. It doesn’t really matter. Don’t add them all at once. “Otherwise your breakfast tacos will be unwieldy and difficult to handle,” he warns.
salsa
Anyone still shocked by the sweet, sticky salsas of the past with the aggressive flavor of dried onions will be relieved to know that there are good pre-made salsas available these days. But the best kind will always be freshly made. I try the Serious Eats version, which uses charred plum tomatoes, chilies, garlic and onions, and Fain’s uncle Richard’s recipe, which uses raw onions and garlic, pickled jalapeños and canned tomatoes. This is not unlike Rodriguez’s slightly simpler version, which uses fresh blackened peppers. Pre-cooked fruit ripens faster and provides more flavor, especially in the dead of winter, but the smoky flavor of roasted peppers and onions is irresistible (I leave the garlic raw to give the salsa a bit of edge).
López-Alt suggests sour cream (or Mexican food). Crema), coriander, finely grated cheddar cheese, Vasquez Monterey Jack and avocado as desired. But keep in mind that any taco will taste better with a drizzle of lime juice. Also, if you’re making breakfast tacos for a crowd, keep in mind that Barclay’s recipe calls for mixing fried sausage meat, hash browns, chopped peppers, onions, celery, and eggs, then baking them for 45 minutes, then allowing everyone to spoon a spoonful of the warm potato filling into their freshly heated tortillas. It’s a lot easier, if a little less fun.
perfect breakfast tacos
prep 15 minutes
cook 30 minutes
make 2, for 1-2 people
Salsa (about 300 g or use ready-made)
½ small white or yellow onioncut into chunks
1-2 mild Cheongyang peppers (e.g. jalapeño)
1 clove of garlicpeeled and mashed
250g canned plum tomatoes
salt and pepper
For tacos
Chorizo cooked sausage 45gFinely chopped, or 1 teaspoon neutral oil
¼ pepperDiscard the core and seeds and finely chop the flesh.
½ mild green pepper (e.g. jalapeño), cut into rings
¼ small white or yellow onionchopped
4 tablespoons roasted beans
2 eggs
2 medium tortillaspreferably flour
10g grated cheddar cheeseor similar (optional)
1 handful of fresh corianderServe roughly chopped
2 lime wedgesserve
First, make the salsa. Turn the grill on to maximum. Place the onions and peppers on a greased baking tray and cook until golden brown on all sides. Remove and discard the stems, or if you prefer less heat, remove the pith and seeds from inside the peppers.
Use a stick blender to finely chop onions, peppers, garlic, and canned tomatoes to create a chunky salsa, then season to taste.
In a dry skillet over medium heat, fry the chorizo until the oil is gone (or heat a little oil if you are not using the sausage). Then add the peppers, chillies and onions and sauté until the vegetables are soft and the chorizo begins to crisp. Place in a bowl, leaving as much oil as possible in the pan.
Reheat the refried beans, if using. Meanwhile, add a little salt to the eggs, beat them and cook them to your liking.
Heat tortillas according to package directions, or in a hot, dry pan for about 10 seconds on each side, then wrap in a tea towel to keep warm.
Spread beans on each tortilla, top with half the egg, then top with half the chorizo and vegetable mixture. Top with cheese, a spoonful of salsa, and chopped cilantro, if desired.
Sprinkle with lime juice, roll, and eat right away.