Made in Bangladesh
Rahemur Rahman's conversation is fast. He is quick to get a lot of ideas and conversations. London Fashion Week Men, a 28-year champion with naturally dyed organic fabrics and a star from his jackets and trousers. UK to LA
Rahman's path was not always smooth. At school he thought it was inappropriate: “Everyone came from the Bangladesh community and I grew up in a millwall. [where his parents settled when they came from Bangladesh in the 80s]It was white. ”
He found his way to Central Saint Martins through a youth arts organization, and at first he was “little influenced by my culture” but instead “the scene of London where I grew up – rough music, contrasting pier between Canary rich and poor, brick Lane History and Tailoring ”. However, when Rana Plaza woke up, Rahman was a "wake up" moment and began creating designs that matched the crafts and heritage of his parents' hometown. Inspired by Dad's personal style, the mess, is a color palette from old family photos.
Last year he traveled to Dhaka for the first time. He sells brands made in Bangladesh as follows: “The fabric is made there and I am also made there.” EVB
The Serena Bute's magnifying glass may be an airport-style goal, but people will “do more than go on a trip. Dress up for lunch, yoga, dinner. ”Versatility and comfort are the keys to Bute, kids, mothers and of course the eponymous collection you can wear. EVB
Sometimes the best ideas like the AW19 stimulus from Coach's Creative Director Stuart Vevers stare at you. He was inspired when he worked with legendary textile designer Kaffe Fassett to pull one of Fassett's books off the shelf. “The best collaboration is a personal collaboration with great creative that brings something different from the table,” says Vevers, who has integrated Fassett's color pop print and patchwork bloom into leather donkey coats, dipping hem dresses and Lurex sweaters. Both are influenced by the American West Coast, leading to the homespan and haute juxtaposition. SC
Hail, Hail Rock and Roll
Daniel Lee, creative director of Bottega Veneta, is what Gucci's Alessandro Michele did in 2016 in 2019. If that doesn't mean anything, then you can say it's the most fashionable person this year. Celine's former Phoebe Philo protégé, 32-year-old Brit, began this year by piling an advertising campaign in which Philo worshipers immediately advertised him as a natural heir to restrained minimalism. But in the fall, we've been looking forward to a collection that combines men's and women's clothing, adding much more rock and roll than the high-end standard styles that Philo fans expected. The oversized coat of tailored pencil dress, motorcycle pants and belt is made of leather. From the label version of the intrecciato woven cushion version to the open-loop design similar to chain mail, everything is finished. Shoes and bags were an immediate blow.
Influencer and shoe lover Sandra Hagelstam posted a photo of a slip-on square-toe heel with five boxes on her Instagram account, saying, "I haven't felt this way in years!" When the temperature drops, you will hit the outerwear item. For most of this inauguration collection, waiting lists are already stacked, so let President Lee start. SC
What every modern man wants
Nanushka beat the female fanbase with vegan leather and a very stylish silhouette, but this broadened the horizons of menswear this season. Sandra Sandor, who founded the brand based in Budapest in 2006, says, “It has always been in my mind.” “I was waiting for the right time to release it.” The transition should go smoothly. The cut of the signature piece has always been unisex, and with recent checks, Nanushka, along with Yara Shahidi, Sienna Miller and Hailey Bieber, enjoyed the hype of the new label with all the fans.
Sandor reiterated his promise to provide a modern and versatile wardrobe for modern people, saying, “I want to explore the fluid relationship between men and women and create a sexual wardrobe with beautiful but functional works.” . The new collection is decorated with paisley prints and pastel palettes with a nice line of comfortable suits, workwear-inspired jackets and wide leg pants. “Comprehensive, easy and modern technology is the best way to explain this,” says Sandor. SC
The new women's clothing brand, Ssōne, focuses on organic cotton, reduced water use and “humane aspects of fashion work”. Founder Caroline Smithson puts as much work on the brand's clothes as possible, but it's important not to suffer “too much yogurt”.
Shortening the seasonal model, Ssōne hopes to develop some sort of uniform instead. Aesthetics are practical with moments of romance – Smithson was inspired by feminists in the 70s. And designers can use the leftovers to clothes well. One jumper was dyed naturally using everything from nettles from team lunch to avocado stones. Looks good enough to eat EVB
Nigeria, Naomi, etc.
Naomi Campbell was no longer known when she walked on the AW19 show by Nigerian famous designer Kenneth Ize. “Everything is always Naomi's idea,” Ize said. "We love her with her support."
Sudden attention took a long time. Based in Lagos, Ize (pronounced e-zay) has honed his skills since starting his famous menswear brand after studying under Bernhard Willhelm and Hussein Chalayan at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna in 2015. In honor of Nigeria's craftsmanship, Ize uses local craftsmen to redress luxurious clothes and make fabrics to make multicolored fabrics, hoping to brighten the country.
“This is a growing awareness of the nuances of Nigerian fashion,” said Izu, who caught the eye of the judges at the Louis Vuitton Mott Hennessy (LVMH) award this year. “Young designers are looking for ways to reinterpret this legacy and increase exposure, and are very happy to be part of it.” SC
Heaven for leather
Comfortable, intelligent and liberated politics, sexuality: new talent initiative fashion east founder Lulu Kennedy describes designer Mowalola Ogunlesi. Let's add one more: brave. Born in Nigeria last year, raised in frost, designers left Central Saint Martins Central MA to reach the front line of fashion in their own way, designing clothes for Skepta to video and removing the likes of Nigerian football. Team after gaining fame with her BA collection.
The Mowalola brand celebrates “fluid men” with leather painted by designers. No wonder Kennedy kidnapped her for her debut on Fashion East's AW19 show – Ogunlesi's fashion show. Kennedy said, “her unusual vision comes from her heart. "She is the punk queen and inspiration we all need." SC
Real life but better
What do you get when one of your favorite style curators in fashion teams with outstanding business brains and talented designers? Deveaux New York. In order not to be confused with Delvaux, the world's oldest leather goods brand founded by Matthew Breen and Andrea Tsao in 2016, he brought street-style photographer Tommy Ton in 2018 as his creative director. Ton's photo was a major supporter of fashion. Who should better talk about what the brand "re-imagined street style" because of the industry's current obsession with street style?
The result is a mix of cashmere crew neck jumpers, double placket shirts and custom "architect pants" that attracted the attention of matchesfashion.com to buy the AW19 brand. Damien Paul explains, “The team has shown how they always consider the & # 39; actual & # 39; element. They will wear samples to see if they are commuting in the morning, wash the pieces and walk the dog. , Head of menswear. "This allows them to develop minimal aesthetics but create the best product in its class." SC
In the club
Like the 994k people on Instagram, you may have heard about Peggy Gou, a Korean DJ sensation that sells the public from Berlin to Rimini. This season, we visit the Gou branch and launch a clothing label called Kirin, named after the Japanese words of our favorite animal, the giraffe. All tutu prints, athlete leisure accents and jolly color palettes were launched at the Paris Fashion Week in February and the heroin of the energy emitted from the DJ box and the energy he wears for the show.
“Peggy's style embodies the interest and direction customers want now,” said Sebastian Manes, Purchasing and Sales Director of Selfridges, which Kirin buys for the AW19. So far, as in Gou's career, the brand has evolved into the stratosphere. This was partly thanks to a deal with New Guards Group, a large company that started Virgil Abloh's Off-White. Kirin came out after the New Guard founders approached Gho. – show. Manes explains his relevance to the party scene that makes Kirin more than a celebrity label. "[She] Bringing together club culture and fashion through design [as well as] Global perspective and network. ”SC
Bellissima! Italian fashion becomes a reality
Italian Style-Power Dressing or Power Glamor? No more. The new generation is revisiting traditional craftsmen and adopting a more conscious approach to finding their strength.
In Milan, Sunnei designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo have used the brand to bring together a creative community (the last menswear show on an urban regeneration project funded outside Milan), critically acclaimed with artists, musicians and charities . collection. Run by husband and wife Margherita Cardelli and Gerardo Cavaliere, the Julia Bar Heritage Collection advocates the art of a traditional Italian tailor designed in Rome. Cardelli said, “Special talent must be nurtured as it defines a country. "It is our duty to maintain the talent of this great Italian."
Meanwhile, the group Leg, which started this month at matchfashion.com, is using Italian craftsmen and women to create “minimalist non-conforming” shoes.
Common with this new wave in Italy? certainty. Cardelli said, “To be completely transparent is truly inspiring.” “Our approach to life reflects what we do.” SC
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