Home Beach holidays Vacation Italy: Day at Cilento Beach | Travel

Vacation Italy: Day at Cilento Beach | Travel

Santa Maria di Castellabate, Cilento National Park, Parco Nazionale Cilento, Vallo Diano e Alburni, Province Salerno, Italy.


The cries of “Cocco bello, cocco fresco” carry intermittently across the beach and are the coconut seller sloths between rows of bronze Naples stretched on sunbeds under a collage of colored umbrellas.

Working as locals do in the Santa Maria di Castellabait fishing village, two hours south of Naples. In other words, I'm rugged sunbathing on the beach where phone calls, family arguments and nothing sweet are done publicly. For the Italians, this terrible atmosphere is part of the charm of the beach.

Map of italy

The rustic village of Santa Maria is situated on a wide sandy beach across the shores of Mountain Cyllento National Park. The city is the new city of Castellabate, a more attractive Norman fortified city designated as a UNESCO heritage, and is the backdrop for Benvenuti al Sud, a comedy film filled with the generous Southern Italian spirit.

Nevertheless, the beach Santa Maria is a great place for a holiday for many Naples large families. Squeeze in a rented apartment or second home owned by several cousins ​​on the weekend of July, and Italy ends many vacations for two weeks in August. Each family vacation spans from a daily routine completed for many generations and has been eagerly desired since living in Naples for many years.

Santa Maria di Castellabate, Cilento National Park, Parco Nazionale Cilento, Vallo Diano e Alburni, Province Salerno, Italy.

Santa Maria di Castellabait beach. Photo: Alamy

Neatly arranged sunbeds on the beach represent a social hierarchy, the wealth of punters is superficially reflected in how close they are to the beach. But at sea, socio-economic divisions are resolved. With the rise of waist heights in the water, I'm in a lively debate comparing the quality of water this season to a few years before the conversation moved to recipes and then lunch.

Living in Neighbors and Naples, with his family, Rosaria Esposito in Santa Maria remembers the old days. oRuot O & # 39; furn and puparuole mbuttunate [Neapolitan dialect for baked pasta and stuffed peppers] I was able to have a multi-course lunch as the whole family sat around a folding table spread out on the sand. ”She recalls how a ceramic sink is provided for washing dishes and utensils next to Lido's shower. I was able to take it home clean.


Holidaymaker on bench near the beach in Santa Maria di Castellabate, Italy

Holidaymaker on a bench next to the waterfront. Photo: Sofia Seymour

These days lunch Salou Meria On a high street before heading to the beach. The couple on the sunbed next to me are opening a panini filled with a plastic container of nutty morta della and peeled figs.

“I like the smell of freshly applied sun cream and sandwiches.” Well-known Naples food writer and cartoonist Amedeo Colella has been here since childhood. He loves to go to the beach every day. "This means we don't have to think, just relax," he says.

Children in the sea at Santa Maria di Castellabate, Italy

At sea… Santa Maria di Castella Bait. Photo: Sofia Seymour

After lunch, he and his wife will head home for a nicknamed afternoon break. La Contrara – Counter time in local dialect. They need to wake up two teenage daughters who will be in bed even after spending a night in town with their summer friends. Colella says, “You can book two places at this rate and rotate your bed,” Colla says in a half joke, referring to a local city legend that suggests that the large Naples family is doing it.

As the early afternoon approaches, the beach disappears and teenagers are scattered. Lemona da Ice granitas in the lido bar. I join them, and foot it hot on Le Bagnanti behind my soles across its avid sands. Only a few tables are laid on the washed deck overlooking the beach. Spaghetti alle vongole-up there are some traditional dishes with chalk on blackboard Impetata di Coze (Spicy mussel soup), I pair perfectly with the piano, a light white wine produced in nearby Paestum.

Ice cream kiosk at the beach in Santa Maria di Castellabate, Italy

Ice cream kiosk at the beach. Photo: Sofia Seymour

Alfonso Ferruzo, a young local owner, said, “I love to keep it simple, but I also celebrate the richness of the area. He claims to try his homemade Lee Monsello, just like the local characters in the film Benvenuti al Sud. And soon I am craving my afternoon debate.


After a nap on the beach, there are rituals that are scattered at evening festivals. The night usually ends with the time when the whole family starts dinner and walks together at home Corso Through Santa Maria till a small time of the morning.

Younger generation to escape the family Pizzeria Le Gatte or the short Trattoria L & # 39; Dine in the stone arcade from Arcata to the marina. But I head to Da Carmine in the village of Ogliastro Marina nearby.

View of the sea through the pine forest, Campania Cilento, Ogliastro Marina, Italy.

View of the sea from the forest at Ogliastro Marina. Photo: Giuseppe Masci / Alamy

Carmine (Verrone), the late owner of the restaurant, began modestly. He was a trade fisherman before he convinced a customer to follow his passion for cooking. The restaurant gained fame based on the family's knowledge of the sea and its contents, and one of Carmin's four sons keeps working hard.

“In July and August, the bay of Naples is filled with anchovies,” says Mario, one of the sons who are currently chasing his son. "Fries, bread and fill here-beginner, main and side." I can not resist all the above orders, but a couple at a nearby table orders a bowl. Linguine Alla PescatoraSprinkled cockle straight from the huge tank at the entrance to the restaurant.

Chef Giuseppe Verrone on the left, Mario, the other son of Carmine Verrone, the center and Armando on the left in Da Carmine restaurant in Ogliastro Marina, Italy

Chef Giuseppe Verrone on the left, Mario the other son of Carmine Verrone in the Da Carmine restaurant, the center and Armando. Photo: Sofia Seymour

Returning to Santa Maria, it's almost midnight and kids aren't going to bed, chasing friends about the square. The Pulcinella puppet show is about to begin and a group of teenagers are wearing tight vests and hot pants. Part of a young boy peacock for a girl sitting on a bench under a row of palm trees. I bump into Colellas, which serves ice cream at the award-winning Gelateria I Golosi. I am full of anchovies, but after a day of sunbathing on the beach, after a close vacation, it seems rude to get used to the refreshing, open and generous way of local holidaymakers to refuse.

This article was revised on September 3, 2019 to remove references to branded products.

Rooms at Hotel Paradiso Residence in Santa Maria di Castellabate are € 80 per night. Located in the nearby village of Ogliastro Marina, Da Carmine has rooms from 60 euros in peak night.

Looking for another vacation? Explore Guardian Holidays to have a fantastic trip.




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