aAs the night passed, a lighthouse flickering across the ocean in Amble caught my eye and I fold the mini-tables of the beach huts, turned off the radio, and stood on the porch. Waiting for the snow to adjust to the night sky full of stars. It was spelled. The northeast coast with castles, characters and legends has magic everywhere, and there are miles of long beaches.
My wife, Mim, and I traveled to the historic coastal town of Alnmouth with our base (a 20-minute walk from the station) by train for a weekend getaway without a car. We soon settled down on the cabin stairs to drink tea and eat bacon rolls while not colliding while listening to the sounds of the sea. In a few hours, the spell was cast, distracted and replaced with fresh air and rest.
But this coast is rich in places to visit, as there is no opportunity to do anything: night Buch and its castle, Pine Islands for discovering seabirds, crater fishing village, 14th-century Dunstanburg Castle, Howick Hall Garden (Earls) Tea time at Gray's ancestors seat).
There are many treasures in this outstanding natural beauty. But what is the best way to explore them? Easy: come by train, ride a bike or walk by bus. Alnmouth station is on the east coast main line, so traveling to London (or Peterborough, Doncaster, York, Newcastle and Edinburgh) is 3 hours 41 minutes from King & # 39; s Cross, reading a book, taking a nap, drinking coffee And took a break.
We arrived at Alnmouth's Old School Gallery early in the afternoon. The weather is still a dark sunshine, windy gray festival. As vegetable frittatas, couscous and salads (8 pounds) talked to Dale and Penny, who ran the gallery and its café filling us up to bacon roll time, Dale felt disappointed when it drizzled.
The couple also owns a weekend billet. Shoreside Huts are five off-grid beach huts located a short walk from the town. Designed by local Riba award-winning architecture firm Elliott and artist and joiner Adam Clarke, these rooms are stylish and wood-coated, with double beds, solar lighting, toilets with compost toilets, log burners, sofa beds and space-saving creativity Equipped with. A shower means a trip to the gallery).
Waking up to the sunrise and the sea is the way I hope to start all day, but since bacon and tea can't be bought alone, we leave the cabin (St Aidan) and take breakfast in Scott & # 39; s Deli (orange juice) in Alnmouth. Ate. , Granola, salmon and eggs on brioche). From there, we studied the way from the 418 bus (Discover day ticket £ 6.50pp) to Bamburgh, starting the day with family, locals and Lycra-clad Peloton members.
This road flowed through the countryside and the coast, passing the villages that we jumped to explore. Instead, we tapped a walker to draw a route from Embleton and Low Newton-by-the-Sea to St Oswald & # 39; s Way. This 97-mile walkway leads to an equally blessed paradise near Hadrian's Wall in the south of the county on Holly Island. After an hour and 10 minutes on the bus, the night Buch and 11th century castles (adults £ 11.25, 5-16s £ 5.50, family £ 28) get into sight
Mim considered the castle not sufficiently damaged. Still, we toured the main room of it, heard stories of dragons and ghosts, and found that you can buy in a rented apartment. We had ice cream at Wyndenwell on Front Street and wandered to the wonderful beaches of Bamburgh to stroll the Seahouses south.
On the horizon are the Farne Islands and two lighthouses, one of which is home to Grace Darling and the story is influenced by the RNLI museum (no admission) in Bamburgh. Darling and her father William took care of Longstone Lighthouse and rescued passengers and crew from SS Forfarshire, who died in the storm on September 7, 1838. They did so on wooden boats, not much longer than the family's real estate car. Grace's rewards attracted the attention of celebrities, which hurried early death from tuberculosis due to constant invasion into the public.
Bamburgh with its stone-built houses gives a warm feel, while Seahouses are a typical seaside town of fish and chip and arcades. So our two hour walk stopped at Lewis & # 39; s (haddock / cod and chips £ 9) before taking the X18 bus to Alnmouth.
At first glance, Alnmouth was scenic, but looked sleepy. But on the main road, Northumberland Street, there are pubs, including Red Lions, teahouse teahouses, famous beach restaurants, and shack shops. There is also an ironic village history. The home of the 18th century smuggler's head is now the Aln Gift Shop.
On our first afternoon we waited to offer a bike hire service at Alnmouth & # 39; s Riverside Road for Adam at a bike shop in nearby Alnwick (25 pounds per day, shipping / pickup available). We watched how the Aln estuary wandered around the town, met the sea and looked at church hills. Adam's suggested route, which easily rides from Sustrans National Cycle Route 1 to Warkworth and its castle, was the most important part. He also wrote Bertram & # 39; s to Warkworth for lunch: the crab cake (£ 9.95) and apple crumble (£ 4.95) brought our return ride to Alnmouth.
Warkworth Castle (appeared £ 7.20, 5-17s £ 4.30, family £ 18.70) starring managers, including Harry Hotspur, liked Mim. We wandered the ruins before venting along the River Coquet to visit the 15th-century hermitage. The boat ride there encapsulated for me, the profound heartbeat of this break and this part of the world. At the box office, Mark encouraged us not to miss hermitage. I asked why. “There is a moment of peace in the middle of the river crossing. It only takes a few seconds, but it's magic. The same is true in this quiet place. ”
• Accommodation provided by Shoreside Huts (2 people from 80 pounds per night, canopyandstars.co.uk) And LNER's rail journey Online fares between London King & # 39; s Cross and Alnmouth at £ 22.50 one way
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